Floor repair photos.

I get lots of floor repair questions.  This was one that arrived this morning:

"Hi, I live in southwest Florida (between Sarasota to the north and Fort Myers to the south). I purchased my brenderup new in 2008. The floor has water rot damage in the front of the trailer. Do you know anyone in Florida that does floor repair?"

One of my readers this spring returned the following photos of a really nice repair job:
 https://plus.google.com/photos/108474721505505420021/albums/5950217411802742417 

Click the link to see the other photos of that repair.   I believe this was done by a boat dealer.

If you have photos of a successful repair please send them to me at Jeff@Kurtzinpa.com

Happy Trails!    Jeff

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Someone wrote to me moments ago and the email vanished...   Judy, if you are out there, please write again to jeff@kurtzinpa.com.

Her question was,"with all the options provided with my Jeep towing package I'm confused.   Which tow bar do I use?"   (paraphrased)...

This is a simple answer:   Put  250# of weight in the bed of your tow vehicle.   That's likely to be two of your average friends or a few bags of oats.

With the trailer empty and connected to the 2" hitch ball, the top of the ball should be at about 18" above the ground.   With our Honda Ridgeline truck we use a straight bar that does not drop down at all.    A taller vehicle would need a hitch bar that drops down the appropriate amount for the ball to be at about that height.

If you are shopping for the right part the people at most auto parts stores should be able to help.

If the ball is way too high your tow vehicle will be carrying extra weight.   If the ball is way too low the trailer will not follow properly and there is a chance that the trailer will pop off of the balll.

I hope this helps.   Please call or write if I can further explain.

Jeff Kurtz
www.Brenderhelp.com
570-401-4843

If you have a pressing issue please don't hesitate to call me directly or email my personal address:

Jeff Kurtz
570-401-4843
Jeff@KurtzInPA.com

Some times I don't see posts at this page for much too long.   It's not that I am ignoring you...   just techie issues.

Travel safe,
Jeff

I had an email today about annual maintenance on a Brenderup.   Most of what I am posting here is included in earlier posts, but it's fall and a good time to take a fresh look at the end of the season.   Here are my suggestions:

Semi-annual -

- Grease three fittings (grease zerks) on hitch assembly.  Two are obvious on top.  Third is below the brake release lever underneath where the lever pivots.  This is the only lubrication point on the entire trailer.

 

- Check the brake release lever for excessive travel.  This is likely only to need to be adjusted every couple years.   With the trailer not connected to the tow vehicle:  Push the button on the break lever and move the lever to the lowered position so that the parking brake is not engaged.     Now, lift the brake lever until it springs up, engaging the brake.   Count how many CLICKS you hear as the lever is rising.   You should hear two click and not more.  These are two loud and fast clicks.   If you hear three clicks, or more, the cable adjusting the brakes needs to be tensioned slightly.  Below the lever assembly, under neath the trailer tongue you will see where the cable going back under the trailer is connected to the break lever with a threaded bolt that has two nuts against each other controlling the length of the cable.   Hold the bolt from turning, loosen the first nut and then TIGHTEN the second nut to effectively shorten the cable and take up some of the slack going back to the trailer brakes.  Test the lever again for clicks.   When you release the lever and only hear two clicks then the cable is adjusted properly.  Tighten the first nut against the second nut to hold the adjustment in place.

This cable also controls the brake being properly by the telescoping trailer tongue which creates what is called the Inertial Braking system.   Failure to have this adjustment proper can cause the trailer brakes not to be applied and the trailer will push the tow vehicle when the tow vehicle is trying to stop.   We learned about this the hard way when the loaded trailer pushed us down a mountain.   \

This adjustment is not an indication of excessive brake wear.  It is normal.

Annual -

-inspect brake shoes for wear.   This DOES NOT REQUIRE removing the wheels!!!   There is an inspection port (a small observation hole) in the backing plate of all four wheels.   Scroll through my photographs and you will see what I am speaking of.   This is exactly how brakes on a 1959 ford were inspected.   You can see the brake show material through the opening and it is save until it wears down to a 2.5mm thickness.  Then you need to start a replacement job.   Not insurmountable.   The brakes are adjusted in the hole just below the inspection port but they should only be adjusted when replaced.   The brakes are self adjusting at all other times.

- Inspect wheel bearings for wear.   Jack the trailer up so the wheels on one side are off the ground.   Grasp the wheel at the top and wiggle it in and out to see if there is any side to side play.  If the bearings are bad the wheel will be loose and you will probably hear a grinding noise when you spin the wheel.   Bearings will likely last the life of the trailer unless you leave the parking brake engaged and drive 100+ miles.  That's how our adventure all began.   By the time we returned home the wheels were grinding when we turned a corner.  Not good.

That's pretty much it for maintenance.   I suggest propping the floor mats up so that the flooring can dry during the off season or if you find a lot of rain getting in thru the back door.   Floors do rot and are a pain to deal with.

The interior light bulbs are available at any auto parts store.  They are the same as used on the interior lights of AUDI and BENZ automobiles.

Happy Trails!

Jeff Kurtz

www.BrenderHelp.com

570-401-4843

Here  a link to manual I have found for Brenderup Brakes:

Operation Manual <<<  (several languages... scroll thru to find English)

I have a couple others at home but won't be there until July.

Hopefully this helps.   The links posted previously have been moved... sorry.

A friend of mine has a Brenderup horse trailer. The local inspection garages in our area do not want to inspect a Brenderup trailer. Do you know of any Garages in the Allentown, PA area that would inspect this trailer? What is so different about a Brenderup trailer that would cause them to not inspect it?

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Joel
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The only thing they need to see is the thickness of the brake pads.   That can be seen thru a little inspection hole on the inside backing plate behind the wheel.  Tell them it's exactly like a '59 ford...   They can see the thickness of the pad using a flashlight.  Same on all four axles.

Don't let them pull the drum unless you have replacement axle nuts.  Those are a one-time-use item.

I had two mechanics in Drums, PA that inspect ours.   See if you can find a trailer dealer that does inspections.

Let me know how you make out.

While you are at it, check the brake application lever to see how many times it clicks when you lift it to apply.  If it clicks 3 or more times you need to take up some of the slack in the cable that goes to the back.  That's pretty simple.


The hole on the left is the inspection hole.   The hole on the right is for adjustment.  Adjustment should ONLY be made when installing new shoes.  

As they wear the only adjustment needed is made with the "number of clicks" described previously.

Struts anyone?

If you have found a source for replacement of the device that assists in lifting the tail gate, please let me know...   I have had quite a few inquiries but have not found a replacement for this device.

Thanks and safe travels to all.

Jeff