If anyone has a set of mare and foal butt bars (they offset the divider to one side) I am looking for dimensions so that I can make a set that are close to the manufacturer's design. Please email photos and or overall length dimension of both parts. Jeff email jeff@kurtzinpa.com

Here is the link to the factory manual on Brenderup Brakes: Note, several languages,,, scroll down to find the english section. http://www.ntsbrenderup.no/downloads/brukerhandbok.pdf 

 Jeff

Received:

Hi

I am going to look at a 2006 Horseliner tomorrow – any suggestions of what I should look for?

I plan to haul with a 2012 Nissan Pathfinder – GVWR -6100 lbs, towing capacity is 6000 lbs.

I generally will be hauling a single horse (16.1 QH appendix, 1200-1400 lbs) but will sometimes haul two – will this be sufficient?

Thanks for all your advice!

Krystal

Good Morning, Krystal!

I think you are in great shape with that combination of truck and trailer. We have towed our Baron for years with a Bronco and never had capacity issues.

Let me point out one thing to help get it right.
The height of the top of the ball on your hitch should be about 18" from the ground with your vehidle on level ground and #250 pounds in the back of the vehicle. This will keep the trailer level when loaded and towing straignt.
If too high your vehidle picks up extra weight and the trailer load moved toward the rear wheels.

If too low, the trailer can tend to weave from side to side. Most auto parts places have selection of hitch styles to give you options. They will probably help you make selections if you need to shop around.

 The only maintenance thing I would do is to have someone punp greast into the three grease fittings ("zerks") on the tongue of the hitch. Two are on top and one is underneath (under the brake lever).

 Don't hesitate to call with questions!

 Happy Hauling.

Nov 16, 2012 update:

I need to go backwards and update some links, due to a change in our website host providers.  Will do soon. 

Year end maintenance tips:

With the trailer NOT connected to your vehicle:

• Greast the THREE (yes, I jest learned there is one under the front end of the hitch.) to keep the sliding section of the inertial braking system free to move.
• Grease the ball.   Yes,,,   messy.  If the hitch is dry the system 'galls' (two metal surfaces scraping against each other) and things start to wear.
• Listen to how many click are heard when you lift and actuate the parking brek lever.  TWO clicks is correct.  If you hear three or more you need to adjust (shorten) the cable which goes back to the Brake shoes.   This is just under the brake lever under the tongue of the trailer.  Just turn the adjustment NUT clockwise to tke up the slck in the cable untill the application of the parking brake creates only two clicks.  This is a norml adjustment to be mde as brake shoes wear.
• Inspect the brake shoes WITHOUT TAKING THE WHEELS OFF!  This step is not in the owner's manual.  Most dealers don't even know that you can do this.   It's exactly what has been on american cars for 50+ years.   There is a viewing slot on the inside of the brake mounting plate.  You have to be under the trailer, with flashlight.  (photo later in blog)  You can see the brake shoe and lining where it contacts the brake drum.   There should be a few mm of thickness.
• Check the brarings!  (no tools required!)   use a jack to lift one side, or a ramp to lift the wheels on one side sot he rear wheel is off the ground.   Rotate the wheel and listen for noises.   scraping can mean that the shoes are worn and the metal shoe is contacting the metal brake drum.   Grinding noise probably means that bearings are going.   I am told that this is uncommon, but our went, giving rise to this website.   Also:  Try to wiggle the wheel side to side.   It should not wiggle side to side.   If it does then something is probably wrong.   Bearings is the likely culprate.

Geheral vehicle maintenance:

• Wash and wax the exterior.   Ya, I know...   it's JUST a horse trailer... but it was $15,000 new and will look great and shed dirt better if it gets waxed at least annually.
• Lift the mats and let the floor dry.   P.I.A. but the floors can rot.   cold metal condenses moisture all the time.   Just prop the mats up so air can dry the floor.   either take them out, hang them over the chest bar or put a couple bricks under them so air can get under them.
• LOOK at your tires.   are they wearing even?  Alignment issues are rare, but don't ignore something that you can see.   Is there some depth to the tread?   Check the tire pressure.   low pressure reduces your fuel economy and causes the tires to wear at the sides more than at the denter of the tread.
• Look at your license plate.   If it doesn't say 2013 you are already in trouble.   What month does it expire?  Plan ahead.
• Look at your inspection sticker!!   Same as above.
• Check your lights.   The interior lights use 'torpedo bulbs' that you can find at any auto parts store.   They are uised on most european vehicles. (Benz, Volvo, AUDI)  Easy fix.
• If you have any questions you can call me any time.   I usually answer of call back quickly.  717-620-9676  or email:  (new)   Jeff@kurtzinpa.com

Jeff