I had an email today about annual maintenance on a Brenderup.   Most of what I am posting here is included in earlier posts, but it's fall and a good time to take a fresh look at the end of the season.   Here are my suggestions:

Semi-annual -

- Grease three fittings (grease zerks) on hitch assembly.  Two are obvious on top.  Third is below the brake release lever underneath where the lever pivots.  This is the only lubrication point on the entire trailer.

 

- Check the brake release lever for excessive travel.  This is likely only to need to be adjusted every couple years.   With the trailer not connected to the tow vehicle:  Push the button on the break lever and move the lever to the lowered position so that the parking brake is not engaged.     Now, lift the brake lever until it springs up, engaging the brake.   Count how many CLICKS you hear as the lever is rising.   You should hear two click and not more.  These are two loud and fast clicks.   If you hear three clicks, or more, the cable adjusting the brakes needs to be tensioned slightly.  Below the lever assembly, under neath the trailer tongue you will see where the cable going back under the trailer is connected to the break lever with a threaded bolt that has two nuts against each other controlling the length of the cable.   Hold the bolt from turning, loosen the first nut and then TIGHTEN the second nut to effectively shorten the cable and take up some of the slack going back to the trailer brakes.  Test the lever again for clicks.   When you release the lever and only hear two clicks then the cable is adjusted properly.  Tighten the first nut against the second nut to hold the adjustment in place.

This cable also controls the brake being properly by the telescoping trailer tongue which creates what is called the Inertial Braking system.   Failure to have this adjustment proper can cause the trailer brakes not to be applied and the trailer will push the tow vehicle when the tow vehicle is trying to stop.   We learned about this the hard way when the loaded trailer pushed us down a mountain.   \

This adjustment is not an indication of excessive brake wear.  It is normal.

Annual -

-inspect brake shoes for wear.   This DOES NOT REQUIRE removing the wheels!!!   There is an inspection port (a small observation hole) in the backing plate of all four wheels.   Scroll through my photographs and you will see what I am speaking of.   This is exactly how brakes on a 1959 ford were inspected.   You can see the brake show material through the opening and it is save until it wears down to a 2.5mm thickness.  Then you need to start a replacement job.   Not insurmountable.   The brakes are adjusted in the hole just below the inspection port but they should only be adjusted when replaced.   The brakes are self adjusting at all other times.

- Inspect wheel bearings for wear.   Jack the trailer up so the wheels on one side are off the ground.   Grasp the wheel at the top and wiggle it in and out to see if there is any side to side play.  If the bearings are bad the wheel will be loose and you will probably hear a grinding noise when you spin the wheel.   Bearings will likely last the life of the trailer unless you leave the parking brake engaged and drive 100+ miles.  That's how our adventure all began.   By the time we returned home the wheels were grinding when we turned a corner.  Not good.

That's pretty much it for maintenance.   I suggest propping the floor mats up so that the flooring can dry during the off season or if you find a lot of rain getting in thru the back door.   Floors do rot and are a pain to deal with.

The interior light bulbs are available at any auto parts store.  They are the same as used on the interior lights of AUDI and BENZ automobiles.

Happy Trails!

Jeff Kurtz

www.BrenderHelp.com

570-401-4843