12/19/2012...   Happy Holidays!

This post is about an american supplier for the bearings in Brenderups.   I am pretty certain that they don't change bearing sizes between the various Brenderups, but I will give you the details.

Jane C. from New Mexico was looking for bearings and brakes and Andy in NH was out of stock.   

Here is the item on Amazon <<<

The part number is 513113 Auto Wheel Bearing, 39mmx72mmx37mm, Sealed.   Priced from $18.95 and in stock in the US!  If your mechanic should have your trailer apart you can have them measure the inside and outside diameter of the bearings without even removing them from the wheel. 

These can be installed by most mechanics.   When I did mine I took the brake drums to a mechanics who pressed out the old bearings and pressed the new ones in for about $20.00

Jane is also looking for replacements for the gas booster cylinders that help lift the tailgate.   If anyone has come up with a suitable American Made replacement please let me know.

Happy trails...    Jeff Kurtz

Happy Holidays! 

Just a couple quick notes:

• This blog goes back a couple years and sometimes links no longer work.  Let me know if you run across something that doesn't work.
• Coming up with suggestions for fixes is really enjoyabloe for me.  Don't hesitate to email or call me.
• When possible, send photographs to show me what you are asking about.
• I'm not a dealer but a concerned owner, retired mechanical engineer and eventer dad.  Sometimes questions come in that I can't help with, but the next night I'llw wake up with a flash and an idea.  I certainly don't ignore requests.  If I don't get back to you I might just not have checked my computer.  Urgent requests should be phoned in.  
• Don't sit out there fretting thinking that there is no help in site.

Jeff Kurtz, Publisher,         570-401-4843        Jeff@Kurtzinpa.com

If anyone has a set of mare and foal butt bars (they offset the divider to one side) I am looking for dimensions so that I can make a set that are close to the manufacturer's design. Please email photos and or overall length dimension of both parts. Jeff email jeff@kurtzinpa.com

Here is the link to the factory manual on Brenderup Brakes: Note, several languages,,, scroll down to find the english section. http://www.ntsbrenderup.no/downloads/brukerhandbok.pdf 

 Jeff

Received:

Hi

I am going to look at a 2006 Horseliner tomorrow – any suggestions of what I should look for?

I plan to haul with a 2012 Nissan Pathfinder – GVWR -6100 lbs, towing capacity is 6000 lbs.

I generally will be hauling a single horse (16.1 QH appendix, 1200-1400 lbs) but will sometimes haul two – will this be sufficient?

Thanks for all your advice!

Krystal

Good Morning, Krystal!

I think you are in great shape with that combination of truck and trailer. We have towed our Baron for years with a Bronco and never had capacity issues.

Let me point out one thing to help get it right.
The height of the top of the ball on your hitch should be about 18" from the ground with your vehidle on level ground and #250 pounds in the back of the vehicle. This will keep the trailer level when loaded and towing straignt.
If too high your vehidle picks up extra weight and the trailer load moved toward the rear wheels.

If too low, the trailer can tend to weave from side to side. Most auto parts places have selection of hitch styles to give you options. They will probably help you make selections if you need to shop around.

 The only maintenance thing I would do is to have someone punp greast into the three grease fittings ("zerks") on the tongue of the hitch. Two are on top and one is underneath (under the brake lever).

 Don't hesitate to call with questions!

 Happy Hauling.

Nov 16, 2012 update:

I need to go backwards and update some links, due to a change in our website host providers.  Will do soon. 

Year end maintenance tips:

With the trailer NOT connected to your vehicle:

• Greast the THREE (yes, I jest learned there is one under the front end of the hitch.) to keep the sliding section of the inertial braking system free to move.
• Grease the ball.   Yes,,,   messy.  If the hitch is dry the system 'galls' (two metal surfaces scraping against each other) and things start to wear.
• Listen to how many click are heard when you lift and actuate the parking brek lever.  TWO clicks is correct.  If you hear three or more you need to adjust (shorten) the cable which goes back to the Brake shoes.   This is just under the brake lever under the tongue of the trailer.  Just turn the adjustment NUT clockwise to tke up the slck in the cable untill the application of the parking brake creates only two clicks.  This is a norml adjustment to be mde as brake shoes wear.
• Inspect the brake shoes WITHOUT TAKING THE WHEELS OFF!  This step is not in the owner's manual.  Most dealers don't even know that you can do this.   It's exactly what has been on american cars for 50+ years.   There is a viewing slot on the inside of the brake mounting plate.  You have to be under the trailer, with flashlight.  (photo later in blog)  You can see the brake shoe and lining where it contacts the brake drum.   There should be a few mm of thickness.
• Check the brarings!  (no tools required!)   use a jack to lift one side, or a ramp to lift the wheels on one side sot he rear wheel is off the ground.   Rotate the wheel and listen for noises.   scraping can mean that the shoes are worn and the metal shoe is contacting the metal brake drum.   Grinding noise probably means that bearings are going.   I am told that this is uncommon, but our went, giving rise to this website.   Also:  Try to wiggle the wheel side to side.   It should not wiggle side to side.   If it does then something is probably wrong.   Bearings is the likely culprate.

Geheral vehicle maintenance:

• Wash and wax the exterior.   Ya, I know...   it's JUST a horse trailer... but it was $15,000 new and will look great and shed dirt better if it gets waxed at least annually.
• Lift the mats and let the floor dry.   P.I.A. but the floors can rot.   cold metal condenses moisture all the time.   Just prop the mats up so air can dry the floor.   either take them out, hang them over the chest bar or put a couple bricks under them so air can get under them.
• LOOK at your tires.   are they wearing even?  Alignment issues are rare, but don't ignore something that you can see.   Is there some depth to the tread?   Check the tire pressure.   low pressure reduces your fuel economy and causes the tires to wear at the sides more than at the denter of the tread.
• Look at your license plate.   If it doesn't say 2013 you are already in trouble.   What month does it expire?  Plan ahead.
• Look at your inspection sticker!!   Same as above.
• Check your lights.   The interior lights use 'torpedo bulbs' that you can find at any auto parts store.   They are uised on most european vehicles. (Benz, Volvo, AUDI)  Easy fix.
• If you have any questions you can call me any time.   I usually answer of call back quickly.  717-620-9676  or email:  (new)   Jeff@kurtzinpa.com

Jeff

fiberglas cracks

Yesterday we were headed back to the barn and I had the opportunity to follow the trailer (daughter driving).

The top canopy dies a lot of wobbling side to side and I think there are two issues.   First is a bunch of cracks that started when a friends horse smacked his head up and broke a 4" piece above the left stall.

That crack weakened the integrity of the narrow vertical lip across the back.   Since then I have seen cracks developing all over, but didn't really think about it til yesterday.   It's wiggling a lot and is only going to get worse.

I am going to investigate using a fiberglas patch kit, or adding a plywood panel which matches the profile.  Will trace the design on Sunday and keep you posted.  I don't really want to add a lot of mass up that high.

The other factor is turbulence in the air flow.   This I think we can fix by installing bumps along the front top that are like spoilers.   I just did this to my motorcycle helmet and the result was obvious and instant.   I am surprised this is not being used in many more applications.

There is a product called Rumble Strips which is sold for helmets.   I just used stick-on clear pads like you would use under an appliance  or even under your laptop puter to not scratch the surface that it is on.   Was cheap for a set of 8 at Lowes.  Will post pictures of what I come up with after the weekend.

Happy Trails!

Jeff

August update:

Summer has been busy thus far.  Lots of shows and travels.   Most problem calls came in the spring when people were taking their Brenderup Trailers out of mothballs and taking to the roads.

Good lesson for all of us.   We should probably take a good look at out trailers before the season ends to fix stuff so we con't complicate next year.  I will work on a to do list for fall.

Meanwhile, I received a note overnight from a person who bought out some Brenderup equipment from a dealer.  She wrote:

"Hi Jeff,

Some time ago we emailed back and forth about your BrenderHelp web site and a window that I had broken on my Baron.

Anyway, long story short... I decided to check into what parts I might want to have available in case I would need them in the future. I had heard of people having a hard time getting parts at times. So I contacted a former BUp dealer and ended up making a deal to buy the parts I wanted along with the remaining inventory of parts that they had. These parts were not being actively marketed, I saw a lot of people in need and thought I could help. So...now I am selling parts. Read more on my web site (below).

I am new to your BrenderHelp web site and just changed my settings and updated my email so it corresponds with my parts web site. Hopefully, that will allow me to post on your site.

Here is what I was going to post:

ANNOUNCEMENT: BRENDERUP PARTS - NEW & USED. Acquired former Brenderup Dealer's inventory. Please check out my web site www.brenderupgal.weebly.com

I wanted you to know about my web site and let any followers know, too. If you would give me any tips on how to post to your site, I would appreciate it.

Please let me know if you have any questions or if there is any way I can help.

Best Regards,
Jane Hart
brenderupgal@comcast.net
www.brenderupgal.weebly.com

Looking for a suggestion on how to repair wall panels?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_8566-293-FTSTF.1_4294715692__?productId=3162499&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

This links to a product sold at Lowes that I have used in shower stalls and around bathtubs.  You will also see it in the restrooms at quickmarts on occasion.   It is pretty thin, like 1/8 " and very durable.

If you see that the walls on your trailer are swelling near the bolt holes at the exterior supports you could try sliding a piece of this between the support and the trailer wall with a coating of silicone adhesive against the trailer panel.

A new question about the "DooRamp" feature, whith whici I am not familiar.

Laura writes, "...My question is around the potential for added maintenance issues with the complexities of a "2 way" door/ramp feature.  My sense is that either it wasn't popular or, they discontinued it due to problems."

Does anyone have any experience with this feature?   Post your answer here or email it to me at Jeff@KurtzInPA.com  .

Jeff

Horse on the Left...

This isn't Brenderup specific, but trailering in general.

Did you know that if you are hauling only one horse the horse should be on the left side of the partition?

This is not only better for your trailer, but better for the horse.   The right side of the road is typically peppered with potholes, craters, bumps at intersections and clutter.   With the horse on the left side the ride is nicer and the trailer doesn't have that 1,000 +/- pounds working on the suspension thru the rough spots.   Your horse can enjoy a smoother trip.

At the same time, while car parts on the right side usually wear out quicker, trailers are the opposite.   Now that the weight is on the left the bearings on that side take more abuse.  Not a big deal, but since most entrance and exit ramps on the interstate are to the right, that puts the load more on the left side also.

When checking your bearings (jack up the trailer and wiggle the wheel side to side.  spin the wheel and listen for noise) the left is where you will find the most worn bearings.   It also appears that the rear bearing will be the first to go.   The hitch keeps the front wheels from having quite as much load as the rear.

PS:  If you don't agree with em that's fine... send your suggestions to Jeff@IdontGiveaHoot.com.  (jk)

Happy Trails!

Jeff

I have had quite a few calls about flooring.  There's not much that I have looked into yet, but here's an article that i found this evening:  http://www.doubledtrailers.com/trailer_flooring.html

Things I am considering in my analysis of products are:

A 1000 pound horse is held up by two 500# footprints.  You don't want to use wood that has any knots in those areas.

Urine is really caustic.  Pressure treated would be a decent choice, and it tends to be cut from logs with few knots.

The rubber mat provides the footing, so the surface of the floor isn't terribly significant.  I would really liek to replace the mats with a flooring product with holes in it for better drying and ventilation.  I have such a mat that I kneel on when working on the truck, but I don't even know where it came from.

Lowes and Home Depot sell a decking product that is all recycled plastic.  It's not cheap and it's heavy, but it's really a good candidate for this application.

Send your suggestions and photos of your trailer to Jeff@KurtzInPA.com

Happy Trails.

Jeff

I had a call, today, from an owner 2004 Baron) who says the floor is getting soft around the drain holes.

My suggestion is, since the mat covers everything anyway, Go to a sheet-metal fabricating shop and get four 12 gauge plates (pieces) of stainless steel (BEST) or galvanized (OK) metal with holes matching the drain hole locations. Place one on the floor and one beneath the floor at each drain hole. Use 1/4 x 2" "carriage bolts" , one in the corner of each plate, with washers and lock washers on the piece under the floor.

Before you attache the top plate to above the floor, apply silicone caulk (aka silicone for kitchen, or bath, or windows) using a caulking gun around the hole and the perimeter of the plate. You can buy this stuff at any hardware store or Lowes/Home Depot.

If you are not a do-it-yourself'er, either ask the sheetmetal show if they will do it, or call around to body shops. Many auto mechanics will put it together if you get the components. 

Make a note: Clean the bedding out of the trailer if it gets wet. Keep the windows and back door closed when in storage. 

Happy Trails!

Jeff
570-401-4843
Jeff@KurtzInPA.com

I talked to Rita last week and I think these folks will do a good job for us.

Soon I will start a BrenderHelp newsletter with tips on maintenance and such.   Email me at Jeff@KurtzInPA.com to get on the newsletter mailing list.

Jeff

~~~~~~~~~

Received:

Hi Jeff, we will be taking over for Jay Martin to sell Brenderup parts here in the USA. We have been selling Brenderup Trailers since 1998 and know them well. If you need anything for your Brenderup, feel free to contact us by phone or email. We are just starting out so please have patience as we are waiting for our first parts to arrive.
Andy

--
Rita and Andy Kaulbach
Mountain Top Trailer Sales
454 West Main St
Tilton, NH 03276
1-603-494-9787 Andy
1-603-493-8057 Rita
www.mountaintoptrailers.com

Email:    mtts@tds.net


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

May 7th:  Recent issues:  

 - Two people are looking for suggestions on replacing or reinforcing the floor where it has rotted around the bolts.  Will be experimenting with solutions on Saturday.

My Baron was filling with water in the tack compartment when ti rains or when we wash it.   I drilled drain holes right inside each door to help with drainage.

- Replacing the cylinders which assist with lowering the tailgate:   Will investigate this weekend.

If you haven't already, you should frequently apply oil / WD-40 to the spaces in the tailgate hinge...   Urine is pretty potent stuff and anything you can do to help keep the shaft of that huge hings from corroding is certain to help.

If you have questions or solutions, or know of a dealer that assists with Brenderup trailers please post the info or email to me at Jeff@KurtzInPA.com .   If you just need to talk I answer at 570-401-4843.

Happy Trails,
Jeff
~~~~~~~~

For Brenderup Trailer repairs in TX:

A S A P Trailer Service & Supply

16330 Fm 2920 Rd, Tomball, TX 77377

281-351-7855
Ask for David Stine, and Please mention www.BrenderHelp.comThey are working on parts supplies with us.

May 2, 2012:   We are working on new contact information for an importer of Brenderup Parts.   Please send an email to me at Jeff@KurtzinPA.com with your Brenderup issues and I will see if I can source an answer for you.

If you know of a trailer dealer who will work on Brenderup Trailers we welcome that information being posted or emailed for distribution also.  

Happy Trailering!

Jeff