I need to go backwards and update some links, due to a change in our website host providers. Will do soon.
Year end maintenance tips:
With the trailer NOT connected to your vehicle:
- Greast the THREE (yes, I jest learned there is one under the front end of the hitch.) to keep the sliding section of the inertial braking system free to move.
- Grease the ball. Yes,,, messy. If the hitch is dry the system 'galls' (two metal surfaces scraping against each other) and things start to wear.
- Listen to how many click are heard when you lift and actuate the parking brek lever. TWO clicks is correct. If you hear three or more you need to adjust (shorten) the cable which goes back to the Brake shoes. This is just under the brake lever under the tongue of the trailer. Just turn the adjustment NUT clockwise to tke up the slck in the cable untill the application of the parking brake creates only two clicks. This is a norml adjustment to be mde as brake shoes wear.
- Inspect the brake shoes WITHOUT TAKING THE WHEELS OFF! This step is not in the owner's manual. Most dealers don't even know that you can do this. It's exactly what has been on american cars for 50+ years. There is a viewing slot on the inside of the brake mounting plate. You have to be under the trailer, with flashlight. (photo later in blog) You can see the brake shoe and lining where it contacts the brake drum. There should be a few mm of thickness.
- Check the brarings! (no tools required!) use a jack to lift one side, or a ramp to lift the wheels on one side sot he rear wheel is off the ground. Rotate the wheel and listen for noises. scraping can mean that the shoes are worn and the metal shoe is contacting the metal brake drum. Grinding noise probably means that bearings are going. I am told that this is uncommon, but our went, giving rise to this website. Also: Try to wiggle the wheel side to side. It should not wiggle side to side. If it does then something is probably wrong. Bearings is the likely culprate.
- Wash and wax the exterior. Ya, I know... it's JUST a horse trailer... but it was $15,000 new and will look great and shed dirt better if it gets waxed at least annually.
- Lift the mats and let the floor dry. P.I.A. but the floors can rot. cold metal condenses moisture all the time. Just prop the mats up so air can dry the floor. either take them out, hang them over the chest bar or put a couple bricks under them so air can get under them.
- LOOK at your tires. are they wearing even? Alignment issues are rare, but don't ignore something that you can see. Is there some depth to the tread? Check the tire pressure. low pressure reduces your fuel economy and causes the tires to wear at the sides more than at the denter of the tread.
- Look at your license plate. If it doesn't say 2013 you are already in trouble. What month does it expire? Plan ahead.
- Look at your inspection sticker!! Same as above.
- Check your lights. The interior lights use 'torpedo bulbs' that you can find at any auto parts store. They are uised on most european vehicles. (Benz, Volvo, AUDI) Easy fix.
- If you have any questions you can call me any time. I usually answer of call back quickly. 717-620-9676 or email: (new) Jeff@kurtzinpa.com
Hi Jeff,
ReplyDeleteA few questions:
-If the surfaces have worn on the hitch...
is there a way to tell if the system galls have worn?
-is there 3 grease points on all Brenderups?
- Have you dealt with delamination?
Thanks for checking in!
ReplyDeletea) Galling.
I am not certain what your definition of "gall" is. Galling is the wear caused by the pressure of metal rubbing on metal. This happens to the surface of the ball on your hitch if not greased. The hazard is that if the hitch actually galls bad enough it can stick to the ball and act like a huge wrench to turn the ball.
Here's the definition from http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling
Here is s forum between RV owners on the topic: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/24425281.cfm
If the ball on your rig feels all scratched and worn (usually on the forward part of the ball where the towing pressure is applied) you could consider replacing the ball. I do recommend keeping the ball and the inside of the hitch cup greased.
B) I don't know about all Brenderups having three fittings. The two on top are pretty obvious. The 3rd one on my Baron is underneath where the brake lever pivots.
C) Delamination. I haven't had that happen on my unit, which is a 1995 (I think). I have had several people inquire but don't have much feedback on what they did. Here is one owner's comment:
"I wondered what your thoughts were on repairing the outer covering on the wooden sided trailers? I peeled as much of the covering off as I dared too and put two coats of bin primer and two high gloss paint layers. yes it was all exterior paints. plus I patched three "holes" and will be caulking them soon."
Here's a paneling item from Lowes that I have used in bathrooms (as do many gas stations and fast food places) and it might be a glue on option
http://www.lowes.com/pd_8566-293-FTSTF.1_4294715692__?productId=3162499&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=
If you can email photographs of what you are seeing that might give me a better idea what to suggest. email to Jeff@kurtzinpa.com
Happy Trails,
Jeff
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI own a 2009 Solo, do you recommend painting the exterior body? Can you recommend the type of paint to use? Thank you.
ReplyDelete