Nov 16, 2012 update:

I need to go backwards and update some links, due to a change in our website host providers.  Will do soon. 

Year end maintenance tips:

With the trailer NOT connected to your vehicle:

• Greast the THREE (yes, I jest learned there is one under the front end of the hitch.) to keep the sliding section of the inertial braking system free to move.
• Grease the ball.   Yes,,,   messy.  If the hitch is dry the system 'galls' (two metal surfaces scraping against each other) and things start to wear.
• Listen to how many click are heard when you lift and actuate the parking brek lever.  TWO clicks is correct.  If you hear three or more you need to adjust (shorten) the cable which goes back to the Brake shoes.   This is just under the brake lever under the tongue of the trailer.  Just turn the adjustment NUT clockwise to tke up the slck in the cable untill the application of the parking brake creates only two clicks.  This is a norml adjustment to be mde as brake shoes wear.
• Inspect the brake shoes WITHOUT TAKING THE WHEELS OFF!  This step is not in the owner's manual.  Most dealers don't even know that you can do this.   It's exactly what has been on american cars for 50+ years.   There is a viewing slot on the inside of the brake mounting plate.  You have to be under the trailer, with flashlight.  (photo later in blog)  You can see the brake shoe and lining where it contacts the brake drum.   There should be a few mm of thickness.
• Check the brarings!  (no tools required!)   use a jack to lift one side, or a ramp to lift the wheels on one side sot he rear wheel is off the ground.   Rotate the wheel and listen for noises.   scraping can mean that the shoes are worn and the metal shoe is contacting the metal brake drum.   Grinding noise probably means that bearings are going.   I am told that this is uncommon, but our went, giving rise to this website.   Also:  Try to wiggle the wheel side to side.   It should not wiggle side to side.   If it does then something is probably wrong.   Bearings is the likely culprate.

Geheral vehicle maintenance:

• Wash and wax the exterior.   Ya, I know...   it's JUST a horse trailer... but it was $15,000 new and will look great and shed dirt better if it gets waxed at least annually.
• Lift the mats and let the floor dry.   P.I.A. but the floors can rot.   cold metal condenses moisture all the time.   Just prop the mats up so air can dry the floor.   either take them out, hang them over the chest bar or put a couple bricks under them so air can get under them.
• LOOK at your tires.   are they wearing even?  Alignment issues are rare, but don't ignore something that you can see.   Is there some depth to the tread?   Check the tire pressure.   low pressure reduces your fuel economy and causes the tires to wear at the sides more than at the denter of the tread.
• Look at your license plate.   If it doesn't say 2013 you are already in trouble.   What month does it expire?  Plan ahead.
• Look at your inspection sticker!!   Same as above.
• Check your lights.   The interior lights use 'torpedo bulbs' that you can find at any auto parts store.   They are uised on most european vehicles. (Benz, Volvo, AUDI)  Easy fix.
• If you have any questions you can call me any time.   I usually answer of call back quickly.  717-620-9676  or email:  (new)   Jeff@kurtzinpa.com

Jeff

fiberglas cracks

Yesterday we were headed back to the barn and I had the opportunity to follow the trailer (daughter driving).

The top canopy dies a lot of wobbling side to side and I think there are two issues.   First is a bunch of cracks that started when a friends horse smacked his head up and broke a 4" piece above the left stall.

That crack weakened the integrity of the narrow vertical lip across the back.   Since then I have seen cracks developing all over, but didn't really think about it til yesterday.   It's wiggling a lot and is only going to get worse.

I am going to investigate using a fiberglas patch kit, or adding a plywood panel which matches the profile.  Will trace the design on Sunday and keep you posted.  I don't really want to add a lot of mass up that high.

The other factor is turbulence in the air flow.   This I think we can fix by installing bumps along the front top that are like spoilers.   I just did this to my motorcycle helmet and the result was obvious and instant.   I am surprised this is not being used in many more applications.

There is a product called Rumble Strips which is sold for helmets.   I just used stick-on clear pads like you would use under an appliance  or even under your laptop puter to not scratch the surface that it is on.   Was cheap for a set of 8 at Lowes.  Will post pictures of what I come up with after the weekend.

Happy Trails!

Jeff

August update:

Summer has been busy thus far.  Lots of shows and travels.   Most problem calls came in the spring when people were taking their Brenderup Trailers out of mothballs and taking to the roads.

Good lesson for all of us.   We should probably take a good look at out trailers before the season ends to fix stuff so we con't complicate next year.  I will work on a to do list for fall.

Meanwhile, I received a note overnight from a person who bought out some Brenderup equipment from a dealer.  She wrote:

"Hi Jeff,

Some time ago we emailed back and forth about your BrenderHelp web site and a window that I had broken on my Baron.

Anyway, long story short... I decided to check into what parts I might want to have available in case I would need them in the future. I had heard of people having a hard time getting parts at times. So I contacted a former BUp dealer and ended up making a deal to buy the parts I wanted along with the remaining inventory of parts that they had. These parts were not being actively marketed, I saw a lot of people in need and thought I could help. So...now I am selling parts. Read more on my web site (below).

I am new to your BrenderHelp web site and just changed my settings and updated my email so it corresponds with my parts web site. Hopefully, that will allow me to post on your site.

Here is what I was going to post:

ANNOUNCEMENT: BRENDERUP PARTS - NEW & USED. Acquired former Brenderup Dealer's inventory. Please check out my web site www.brenderupgal.weebly.com

I wanted you to know about my web site and let any followers know, too. If you would give me any tips on how to post to your site, I would appreciate it.

Please let me know if you have any questions or if there is any way I can help.

Best Regards,
Jane Hart
brenderupgal@comcast.net
www.brenderupgal.weebly.com

Looking for a suggestion on how to repair wall panels?

http://www.lowes.com/pd_8566-293-FTSTF.1_4294715692__?productId=3162499&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1&currentURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1&facetInfo=

This links to a product sold at Lowes that I have used in shower stalls and around bathtubs.  You will also see it in the restrooms at quickmarts on occasion.   It is pretty thin, like 1/8 " and very durable.

If you see that the walls on your trailer are swelling near the bolt holes at the exterior supports you could try sliding a piece of this between the support and the trailer wall with a coating of silicone adhesive against the trailer panel.

A new question about the "DooRamp" feature, whith whici I am not familiar.

Laura writes, "...My question is around the potential for added maintenance issues with the complexities of a "2 way" door/ramp feature.  My sense is that either it wasn't popular or, they discontinued it due to problems."

Does anyone have any experience with this feature?   Post your answer here or email it to me at Jeff@KurtzInPA.com  .

Jeff

Horse on the Left...

This isn't Brenderup specific, but trailering in general.

Did you know that if you are hauling only one horse the horse should be on the left side of the partition?

This is not only better for your trailer, but better for the horse.   The right side of the road is typically peppered with potholes, craters, bumps at intersections and clutter.   With the horse on the left side the ride is nicer and the trailer doesn't have that 1,000 +/- pounds working on the suspension thru the rough spots.   Your horse can enjoy a smoother trip.

At the same time, while car parts on the right side usually wear out quicker, trailers are the opposite.   Now that the weight is on the left the bearings on that side take more abuse.  Not a big deal, but since most entrance and exit ramps on the interstate are to the right, that puts the load more on the left side also.

When checking your bearings (jack up the trailer and wiggle the wheel side to side.  spin the wheel and listen for noise) the left is where you will find the most worn bearings.   It also appears that the rear bearing will be the first to go.   The hitch keeps the front wheels from having quite as much load as the rear.

PS:  If you don't agree with em that's fine... send your suggestions to Jeff@IdontGiveaHoot.com.  (jk)

Happy Trails!

Jeff

I have had quite a few calls about flooring.  There's not much that I have looked into yet, but here's an article that i found this evening:  http://www.doubledtrailers.com/trailer_flooring.html

Things I am considering in my analysis of products are:

A 1000 pound horse is held up by two 500# footprints.  You don't want to use wood that has any knots in those areas.

Urine is really caustic.  Pressure treated would be a decent choice, and it tends to be cut from logs with few knots.

The rubber mat provides the footing, so the surface of the floor isn't terribly significant.  I would really liek to replace the mats with a flooring product with holes in it for better drying and ventilation.  I have such a mat that I kneel on when working on the truck, but I don't even know where it came from.

Lowes and Home Depot sell a decking product that is all recycled plastic.  It's not cheap and it's heavy, but it's really a good candidate for this application.

Send your suggestions and photos of your trailer to Jeff@KurtzInPA.com

Happy Trails.

Jeff